THAILAND (6) - TAKE TWO
1 099 Km - 29 Days
12 September - 10 October 2015
MAP
PHOTOS
11 September - Guran, Malaysia – Sadao, Thailand - 105 km
The day turned out pleasant cycling as the rain abated and the sky turned a bright blue. A minor road ran flush next to the main road, making comfortable riding. The previous two days’ rain brought views of flooded rice paddies and a lush green countryside.
My chosen route ran north to the Malaysia-Thailand border. The crossing into Thailand was surprisingly troublesome. Firstly, due to having two passports (the old one and the new one) and secondly, Thailand wanted proof of 20000 Thai Baht in cash, no bank statements. Staff further insisted on a return ticket. So off I went to the bank to draw money, which satisfied the lady. On explaining that I was travelling by bicycle, she, fortunately, didn’t insist on a ticket out of the country. By then, it was pretty late, and I overnighted in Sadao.
12 September - Thailand/Malaysia Border – Hat Yai - 60 km
Hat Yai, was only sixty kilometres away, and a day of leisure was spent in the city. I played on the computer and accidentally deleted my entire Flickr account. Although Flickr is a photo-sharing tool, I don’t use it as such but as online storage; as a result, there were not hundreds but thousands of pictures.
I later spoke to my friend Lois, and we planned to meet in Bangkok.
13 September - Hat Yai – Patthulung – 97 km
Midday, two youngsters on a scooter stopped and gave me a 100Plus sports drink; how sweet of them. The people of Thailand are exceedingly kind and eager to share whatever they have. My route took me past fruit stalls selling delicious-looking tropical fruit and the ever-present ornate Buddhist temples. I tried making short movie clips to pass the time, but making videos wasn’t as easy as anticipated and I stuck to stills.
14 September - Patthalung – Thung Song – 97 km
Route 41, a roadside restaurant, made a convenient place to have breakfast and where I once again met immensely welcoming people. The owner, a photographer, gave me one of his postcard books. I felt a tad sluggish but soldiered on as the weather was overcast and thus perfect cycling conditions. Unfortunately, my late lunch made me feel lethargic and the tiny settlement of Thung Song signalled the end of the day’s ride. Fortunately, Thung Song was home to a budget hotel sporting large, bright rooms and a spacious ground floor area that made convenient bike storage.
15-16 September - Thung Song – Ban ThaRua (Surat Thani intersection) - 108 km
My pace was becoming slower, but then I realised I’d cycled over 1000 kilometres without a rest day. Unfortunately, the day was marred by frequent rain showers, which took sheltering an hour or so before continuing. I finished the day’s ride at the Surat Thani intersection, which offered convenient rooms adjacent to a petrol station.
17 September - Ban ThaRua – Bamboo Hotel - 30 km
On noticing a gap in the weather, I hurriedly packed up and cycled out of Surat Thani. Shortly afterwards, another storm moved in; fed up with the weather, I struggled on, but on reaching a petrol station offering convenient digs, I pulled in to get out of the weather.
18 September - Bamboo Hotel – roadside cottage - 90 km
The weather forecast predicted three hours of cloudy skies before more thunderstorms. I, hence, hopped on the bike early. Midway a sign to a spa lured me in. Unfortunately, the place was somewhat hidden away, and it took walking through the forest before reaching the baths. I didn’t spend much time indulging in these mineral-rich waters as the weather came in and best to get underway.
Fortunately, I managed to cycle virtually the entire way without becoming soaked. The weather came in just as I reached a 24-hour joint and couldn’t believe my luck. Typically, these 24-hour places are love motels, and these one sported cute bungalows at reasonable rates. I didn’t argue about the price and was happy to unload my sopping wet gear in their little cottage. The small store sold cup noodles, beer and crisps and that were all I needed.
19 September - Roadside Cottage –Chumphon - 90 km
Cup noodles aren’t designed to give maximum energy. Still, as the weather forecast showed only cloudy skies and a chance of thunderstorms later during the day, I wasted no time getting underway. I pedalled like a woman possessed in the direction of Chumphon. This day, no sightseeing was done, only the occasional water stop and then back on the bike. With the rainy season in full swing, water was everywhere, rivers were flooded, drains were blocked, and if your house wasn’t on stilts, you were in trouble.
Chumphon was reached before midday and before the rain came down. I headed straight to The Farang Bar, where I’ve stayed previously. The place wasn’t as lively as I remembered, but the establishment was cheap and the bar/restaurant was convenient for hanging out.
20 September - Chumphon – Nipa Beach Bungalow – 110 km
Feeling tired breakfast was after about 20 kilometres. Still, I didn’t feel a great deal more energetic. Luckily the Gulf of Thailand is picturesque and a pleasure to cycle.
For the first time in several months, I met other cycle tourists on their way south. They were in a great hurry to get out of the country before their visas expired. We chatted a while and then continued our separate ways.
Reaching the turn-off to Nipa Beach Bungalows, I was happy to call it quits.
21-22 September - Nipa Beach Bungalow – Prachuap Khiri Khan - 100 km
The temperature was back to the mid-’30s, whereas the previous days were around 27ᵒC. Even the snakes were out to enjoy the warmer weather, and I kept a beady eye out for them basking in the sun.
When I woke the following morning, I was happy to pull the blanket over my head and continue sleeping. I further received word from Lois stating she couldn’t make our Thailand rendezvous. Apart from setting up a new blog, I did little the rest of the day, as I couldn’t get into my old one—what a drag.
23-24 September – Prachuap Khiri Khan – Hua Hin - 101 km
The day flew by as I picked up a tailwind. Hua Hin is a popular holiday resort, especially among long-term Westerners. The narrow lanes between the main road and the ocean were lined with western restaurants and bars. All were frequented by older European men, proudly parading Thai companions on the arm.
Basic accommodation on stilts over the water, was my abode of choice and staying an extra day came easily. Unfortunately, little was done as the weather remained rainy for the best part of the day. However, I didn’t mind as I was snug in my teeny room.
25 September - Hua Hin – Samut Songkhram - 118 km
The stretch between Hua Hin and Samut Songkhram was a most pleasant ride. The weather was excellent as I followed tranquil country lanes. The path led along a river and through luminous green rice paddies; past prominent, brightly coloured temples and one-lane fishing communities where colourful fishing boats lay 4-deep and sleeping dogs scarcely bothered lifting an eye.
It appeared a rarity seeing a foreign woman on a bike, and welcoming villagers called greetings and kids on bicycles found it fun to give chase. In contrast, others seemed slightly apprehensive, and my every move was watched with great interest. I arrived in Samut Songkhram just as the food stalls were set up.
Hometown Hostel was inexpensive and although the rooms were tiny, I was the only one at the hostel and had the dorm all to myself. The streets were jampacked with food vendors and one could pick and choose from the numerous dishes on offer.
26 September – Samut Songkhram – Bangkok - 98 km
Instead of following the main road, I weaved my way along village lanes in the direction of Bangkok. These secondary roads made far more enjoyable riding. Greetings of “Hello, farang!” and scores of food carts dotted the way. The fascinating thing was that all drinks automatically came as a takeaway in a handy plastic bag that could be hooked onto the handlebar.
The last 30 kilometres into town was along the busy Phetkasem Road, which turned out a complete nightmare. Gridlock traffic made a slow and frustrating ride. Eventually, I turned off onto a smaller path that required a ferry across the Chao Phraya River. This wasn’t a disaster, but the stairs to and from the ferry made the crossing a whole performance. Fortunately, many hands made light work and I soon reached Peachy Guesthouse, my trusted accommodation in Bangkok.
27 September - Bangkok
The plan all along was to cycle from Thailand via Myanmar to India. I did virtually nothing the entire day, as being Sunday, I could only visit the Indian Embassy the following day. I understood the application took nine working days and guessed Bangkok would be home a few more days.
28 September – 2 October - Bangkok
I went to the embassy, application in hand, only to hear the rules changed and foreigners could no longer apply in Bangkok! Have you ever? I was stunned and left speechless. I couldn’t believe what I was told. My disbelief was due to the embassy’s online application beforehand.
The morning, before going to the embassy, I checked my application which stated: “Your application was successfully submitted”, which in my pea-size brain translated to everything being in order. But as always, there’s no arguing with embassy staff.
I checked the internet but was none the wiser about which neighbouring countries issued visas to foreigners. So, to clear my head I opted to walk instead of taking a bus, which allowed taking a few pictures of typical city life. In the process, I lost a lens cap in the river. This darn blood moon in Aries wasn’t good, at all.
I eventually spoke to the Indian Visa Centre in Kuala Lumpur, and it appeared foreigners could apply in Malaysia. My annoyance with the whole saga was that I stayed at Peter’s on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur and could easily have applied whilst there. But no, I’d ants in my pants and wanted to get going.
I phoned Kuala Lumpur, to make 100% sure, and this time the answer was, “You can apply but have a 50/50 chance”. I didn’t quite understand this either as I assumed the answer would be a simple “Yes” or “No”. However, the Indian embassy in Myanmar was more helpful and confirmed one could apply in Yangon. This suited me perfectly as I was heading to Myanmar anyhow.
It’s no secret I love Bangkok. I love it for a variety of reasons. Where else in the world can one board a water taxi and a few minutes later a modern Skytrain which will drop you right in the buzzing CBD? A walk around the corner of these modern skyscrapers will bring you to where people live in askew homes upon stilts over the water, right in the heart of the city centre. Even in these modern times, the river remains the city’s heartbeat and a place where tugboats, barges, river taxis and longtail boats all jostle for position. Old temples sit snugly amidst modern architecture, and old wooden structures cling desperately to rotting stilts. So I smiled when I saw longtail boats plying the waters, on the hunt for the unsuspecting tourist. Add the weird and wonderful, pierced, dreadlocked and tattooed farangs, and I could easily linger awhile.
3 October - Bangkok
I’d a genuine nightmare of a day that started with an innocent haircut. Unfortunately, the haircut turned out a total disaster, and barely enough hair remained to attach extensions. After that episode, I went into hiding the rest of the day.
After sunset, I regained confidence and took a walk, tripod in hand. I was surprised to find Wat Po (the temple of the reclining Buddha) open. Although the temple itself was closed, one could walk the grounds. So, without a soul in sight, I wandered around these fantastic temples. What a privilege.
I procrastinated – a week passed, and still, I hadn’t taken the bicycle for a service. I’ve done over 8000 kilometres on the same chain and cogs and believed it necessary to check it out before proceeding to Myanmar and onwards to India.
4-7 October - Bangkok
I was operating in low gear as the Myanmar visa took a few days; I cycled to Bok-Bok Bike, left the bike in their capable hands and then walked along Bangkok’s old klongs and canals. These ancient waterways still exist; although several have been filled, a good few remain. Here I discovered people living, trading, socialising and going about their daily business. I squeezed past narrow doorways, stepping over shoes and chickens as I followed the canal to the guesthouse. I ducked under bridges and through markets, past crooked houses and intriguing restaurants. Bangkok never fails to amaze.
A few days later I returned to the bike shop to see how far they had progressed, but they were closed. I thus continued walking past the bike shop and uncovered a whole host of fascinating things. First, I came upon tradesmen crafting monks’ begging (alms) bowls; I understood they’ve been doing this continuously since the 1700s!
I sauntered through traditional markets and modern shopping malls until reaching the Goddess Tubtim Shrine. At this shrine were countless oversized phalluses of all shapes and sizes standing tall, proud, and dare I say, erect – proof size does matter even in the spirit world! The shrine honours Chao Mae Tubtim, a female fertility spirit. Women visit this shrine when trying to conceive. And if rumours can be believed, the shrine has a tremendous success rate. Women will return if their wish is fulfilled, and place yet another phallus at the shrine in gratitude. How weird!
Afterwards, a canal water taxi took me back to my place, an experience in itself, and not for the faint-hearted. It required jumping on board rather quickly as the boat barely came to a halt before moving on. Not an easy task, camera in hand. The ferry terminal was a few kilometres from my guesthouse and the last few kilometres were by motorbike taxi. It’s best not to look, as my driver weaved through the traffic at high speed ignoring all traffic rules.
8–10 October – Bangkok – 38 km
I’m constantly hoping to find unusual things and set out to an abandoned building. Known as the “Sathorn Unique”, this 50-storey building was left unfinished in 1997 during the world economic crisis. The building was rumoured to become one of Bangkok's most luxurious residential buildings.
I met a young Australian couple who, too were meandering about. The building was, however, fenced off. Next door, we located a small restaurant fitted with a garage roll-up door leading to the yard of the restricted area. The Australian girl and I ambled out into the yard. The restaurant owner promptly slammed the door, yelling that she was calling the police. No amount of begging from the boyfriend (still inside) could get her to open the door. In the meantime, I thought this an excellent opportunity to snap a few pics but the resident caretaker wanted nothing of it.
To my utmost surprise the young Australian lady switched to Thai, explaining our predicament. (I subsequently learned her mother was Thai). Finally, he unlocked a side gate and we were set free. At the restaurant the boyfriend was still trying to get the owner to open the door. They were somewhat surprised to see us.
The following morning, I emerged to a drizzle that continued all morning. Finally, the rain abated around midday, and I hurriedly loaded the bike and headed out of Bangkok, even though I’d paid an extra night. Halfway out of the city, I took the bus to Mae Sot (the border town between Thailand and Myanmar). Seeing I’ve cycled this route twice before, I didn’t find it necessary to cycle the same way a third time. I arrived at the bus station covered in mud, which drew much attention.
The bus to Mae Sot was only at 20h00, which meant a relatively long wait. Not only a long wait, but a 4h00 arrival in May Sot.
The bus trip was comfortable and uneventful, but our arrival coincided with pouring rain, leaving me to cycle the few kilometres into town in darkness and bucketing rain. I thus arrived sopping wet at the Porn-The Hotel (nothing like it sounds).
I was a tad ahead of myself in saying I was going to India. India was more than 1500 kilometres away, and I still needed to traverse Myanmar (again) to pick up an Indian visa, hopefully without losing the passport this time. The only border crossing between the two countries, at the time, was in the remote northern region of India and Myanmar. The area was a restricted one and one needed a special permit that could be bought in Yangon.
1 October - Maesot, Thailand – Kawkareik, Myanmar – 55 km
I first had breakfast at Krua Canadian, a European restaurant run by a Canadian. The owner has lived in Thailand for more than 17 years and was a mine of information. The food was excellent and came just at the right time when generally people had enough of eating noodle soup.
Afterwards, I cycled the short distance to the border, crossed without drama, drew 300,000 Burmese Kyats, bought a sim card, and then set off over the mountains. Once all was done, the time was already past midday on cycling out of hectic Myawadi. Although the new road was open, the ride remained slow and the climb steeper than it looked. At least two truck accidents occurred during the day; they were, obviously, not used to the new, faster road.
Reaching the high point, the weather came in, and by the time I’d cleared the mountains, I was soaked and happy to find a guesthouse in Kawkareik. Kawkareik is a tiny village where I’m sure no foreigner ever overnights. After booking in, I took to the streets on the hunt for food and felt like I was the circus that had arrived in town. I was starving, but the electricity only came on after 6 p.m. and practically all restaurants were closed. Nevertheless, I found a few nibbles, entirely different from the street food in Thailand.
