CAMBODIA (2)
929 Kilometres – 21 Days
3 May – 25 May 2015
MAP
PHOTOS
3
May - Sa Kaeo, Thailand – Saophoan (Sisophon), Cambodia - 107 kilometres
Upon
arriving at Po Pet’s Thai/Cambodian border, one left organised Thailand and
entered a slightly more chaotic Cambodia. The border crossing was made even
more so as it formed part of the Border Market. One needed to weave through the
thousands of stalls before reaching the immigration office.
Once
in Cambodia, the route headed east in the direction of Siem Reap. Despite not being
exciting, an excellent paved road led past stilted houses and dry rice paddies.
I was going like the clappers, trying to out-cycle the approaching storm,
wondering if it would be possible to cycle to Saophoan without getting soaked.
4
May - Saophoan – Siem Reap - 107 kilometres
The
following morning the route was again mainly in good condition, apart from the stretch
being resurfaced. The dust was horrendous and enough to make me haul out my
buff. Luckily, this wasn’t the rainy season, as one could imagine the route a
muddy affair. Being early May, the weather was scorching, and the mercury hovered
around 40°C. I wet my shirt from time to time, but within 5 kilometres, it would
be bone dry. Like a diver needing decompression, I needed an air-con room to “de-heat”.
My
route led past several rural communities and seemingly hundreds of school kids
on bicycles. One can’t knock a country where kids still have the freedom to go
to school by bike.
Coming
from the countryside, touristy Siem Reap appeared an over-commercialised
madhouse. Where water in the rural areas was 500 Riel, a few places in Siam
Reap charged 4000 Riel! Ivy Guesthouse had fan rooms, and the fan never made
the slightest difference. At 11 p.m., the weather bureau gave the temperature at
30°C (felt like 35), and it was significantly cooler outside.
5
May - Siem Reap
By
morning, I searched for better accommodation and uncovered a whole plethora of
places to choose from, all roughly in the same price range.
The
main reason for staying in Siem Reap was to explore the temples of Angkor Wat and
I purchased a 3-day ticket. My first stop was Angkor Thom, the last great
capital of the Khmer Empire. Approaching the site, its magnificent entrance
gates came into view. The gates were flanked by 54 demons and 54 gods engaged
in an epic tug of war.
Inside
the gates was the old temple featuring 54 towers decorated by 216 enormous
faces of Avalokiteshvara (“The Lord who looks in every direction”), which (is
said) bears more than a passing resemblance to the great king himself.
6
May - Siem Reap
I
was slightly unlucky regarding the sunsets and sunrises. The previous night’s
sunset came without colour, and this morning’s light was unspectacular. I
nevertheless took a few pictures, as I seldom got up at 5h00.
After
sunrise, the second stop was the immensely photogenic Ta Prohm (the temple Lara
Croft made famous). Sadly, for photographers, the Cambodians were busy renovating
the structures. Without this work, however, the temple wouldn’t last another
decade. Fortunately, plenty remained to take pictures of, and I half expected
to meet a hobbit.
7
May - Siem Reap
An
additional day was spent at Angkor, discovering a few ruins further afield. Having
a 3-day ticket, I could explore in the morning and then retreat to the comfort
of my air-con abode during the day, only to emerge once the heat had abated.
8
May - Siem Reap - Kampong Kdei - 61 kilometres
After
three non-cycling days, I should’ve been a ball of energy, but instead, I felt
lethargic and found it hard to get going. The way led past typical Cambodian
houses upon stilts where people seemed to live more under their homes than
inside. Under the house was where they hid from the heat and rain, where they ate
and socialised and, most of all, where they swung in hammocks. To me, Cambodia was
the hammock capital of the world, as they never seemed to leave it. I realised
their hammocks were outside and in full view of everyone. One could thus see
them sleeping and relaxing. Traditionally Cambodians don’t sit on chairs but on
the floor or in a hammock. Elsewhere people relax, rest or sleep in the privacy
of their homes, and one merely saw them going about their daily business or
sitting on a chair, giving the impression they were always busy.
The
path was littered with vendors selling bamboo rice and dried fish. The rice was
delicious. Cooked in bamboo stalks over an open fire the rice had a unique
taste.
Not
much further the route passed an ancient bridge, built around 1181 – 1220 AD.
The bridge was located along the old road, which (many moons ago) connected the
ancient capital of Angkor to the south. The bridge measured 86m long, 16m wide
and 10m high. It consisted of 21 arches, supported upon 20 columns, and was
decorated by a 9-headed Naga balustrade. The greatest surprise was the bridge remained
in use. Although the new road bypassed it, the bridge was used by motorbikes, pedestrians,
and bicycles.
The
guesthouse beside the bridge made a convenient overnight stop, albeit a tad
early. These village guesthouses made exciting stopovers. Rooms came at a
whopping $6 and had a fan, en-suite bathroom featuring a squat toilet and a
mandi (a large concrete tub filled with water). The Cambodians were very
diligent about complementary items such as toothbrushes and soap. Even the most
basic of rooms offered a toothbrush, soap, and the ever-present communal hair
comb. Who the heck uses a communal comb? But, judged by the blackness of the
teeth, they were well-used items!
9
May 2015 - Kampong Kdei – Kampong Thom - 90
kilometres
Feeling
remarkably energetic after the previous day’s tiredness I departed far earlier
than usual. Biking in the cooler morning air was most enjoyable. The way was
busy with school kids on bikes (on a Saturday?). It struck me how nearly all kids
worldwide attend school, but how they get to it varies tremendously. Like the
previous day, the route led past wooden houses upon stilts. The usual “Sabadee
falang” came from underneath houses or from behind banana plants.
The
word falang (foreigner) appeared as a code amongst the younger ones. Only one had
to call “Falang”, and all the kids in the neighbourhood would come running, yelling
“falang, falang” while bouncing up and down.
Being
weekend, wedding ceremonies were at the order of the day. These ceremonies generally
took place over weekends, in street-side yellow and pink marquees outside the
family home. I think my curiosity bordered on rudeness as I often stopped and
had a peek at the activities.
10
May - Kampong Thom
Rumour
had it that pre-Angkorian temples were scattered in the forest roughly 30
kilometres from Kampong Thom. After hailing a tuk-tuk, we set out in the
direction of the site. The ride was slow and took the best part of an hour.
Once
there, various trails led into the woods, and it was great fun locating these
temples and exciting to come upon these ancient ruins. More than 100 structures
are scattered throughout the forest. The information board stated the area was
once called Isanapura and served as the capital of Chena in the early 7th
century. Fascinating stuff.
11
- 12 May - Kampong Thum – Kampong Cham - 113 kilometres
Shortly
after departing, my route passed an area where temple statues were made. The sculptures
were displayed along the road; big ones, small ones, sitting Buddhas and
reclining Buddhas. Carving these statues was an immensely dusty job and surely
couldn’t be healthy.
The
path was like one long, drawn-out village; each house with a plastic
contraption with fluorescent lights to catch bugs. It appeared no one in
Cambodia wanted to run out of hors d’ oeuvres.
The
roadside rubber plantation looked lush and green, making me feel like lying in
the shade. However, the presence of the numerous snakes made me decide against
such a move, especially after cycling over one earlier and I wasn’t going to
take another chance.
Harvesting
latex from rubber trees was fascinating, albeit very labour-intensive. A 25-centimetre
cut was made in the bark, leaving the bark to form a gutter for the latex to
flow into a cup, tied to the tree below the cut. The latex was only collected
every second day from the same tree. It’s said the trees can be harvested from about
five years old and can be harvested for practically 28 years. Trees are not
tapped during the dry season; and no tapping occurred during my visit.
The
small settlement of Kampong Cham situated along the banks of the Mekong River
was my preferred overnight stop. The town was surprisingly charming and easy to
find a place overlooking the Mekong. I bought a beer and gulped it down while watching
the sunset over the river. Life was indeed good and staying the following day
came easily. I didn’t do much more than devour anything in sight and watch the Mother
River flow past.
13
- 17 May - Kampong Cham – Phnom Pehn - 107 kilometres
I
was up early to witness the sunrise and take a few pictures. I’m not
exaggerating when saying after snapping one shot; all the colour was gone.
It’s
said that even the most mundane trip becomes an adventure when travelling by
bicycle, which sure was the case this day. Unfortunately, Google maps didn’t indicate
a road along the river to Phnom Penh. The Mekong is a mighty river that flows 4,350
kilometres from the Tibetan Plateau to where it eventually drains into the
South China Sea in Vietnam. I thus never doubted that people lived and farmed
along the banks of this mighty river.
My
first stop was at the bamboo bridge, obviously strong enough to hold a car, but
the bridge felt unstable and springy. Google was true to its word, and soon,
the path petered out and became a mere sandy track. I bounced along a dusty trail,
past small settlements where villagers were as surprised to see me as I was to
see them. A few laughed, some pointed, others stared open-mouthed and the kids,
as always, called: “Hello, Farang”.
It
turned out an exciting day past villagers going about their daily lives without
the influence of the thousands of tourists coming to see the Temples of Angkor.
No one needed to go shopping; the shops came to them. Pyjama-clad women on
bicycles sold wares from house to house, announcing what they had available in
a sing-song voice. Being the dry season and dusty, I was soon the same colour
as the road.
Roughly
30 kilometres from Phnom Penh, my path reached a brand-new highway leading into
the city centre. Once in Phnom Penh, the Royal Guesthouse made a comfortable
stay at a reasonable price. Rooms offered air-con, TV, a bar fridge and a
bathroom with hot water, all at $13. I consequently decided to stay five days. Exactly
how the five days would be spent was a mystery, but not having to pack up and
move along was a novelty.
The
traditional Cambodian dance show was a pleasant way to spend an evening. It made
me realise how much I’ve missed the theatre. However, my photography wasn’t up
to scratch, and I found it challenging to capture the fast-moving dancers in
low light.
As
the Killing Fields were depressing, I’d no intention of revisiting them but somehow
landed there. I believe it is impossible to visit Cambodia and not touch on the
genocide in this country. It makes you wonder how a country can go from the
mighty Khmer Empire of Angkor to the genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge. Nearly all
countries/nations/tribes had wars and killed countless people. At least they
wanted something from their “enemy”.
In
contrast, Cambodia killed their very own. In the relatively short period from
1975 – 1979, the Khmer Rouge managed to kill around 2 million Cambodians, and
it’s the sheer brutality of these murders which gave one the creeps. As a
result, a sombre mood prevailed at both the Killing Fields and at the former
prison known as S-21. This now innocent-looking school building was once the
largest torture centre in the country.
18
May - Phnom Penh – Traeng Trayueng - 90 kilometres
Being
8h00 on a Monday morning and with major roadworks underway, getting out of
Phnom Penh was an utter nightmare. Cambodians drive in weird and wonderful ways
as well as on both sides of the road. Not surprisingly, I’d a minor collision involving
a motorbike coming in the opposite direction which ripped my front pannier. The
pannier was held together by duct tape for the remainder of the trip.
The
good road out of Phnom Penh didn’t last awfully long but soon turned into a narrow
and rough one. At least the road had a good dirt shoulder. Route 4, heading
south, led into the wind, a bit of a double-edged sword as the breeze kept me
cool but slowed the pace considerably. Ninety kilometres out the Chanreah
Guesthouse rolled into view and made a good enough place to spend the night.
The
restaurant across the street provided a delicious bowl of curry noodle soup. The
food was so good, I later returned to get one more bowl. It was remarkable to
see how Cambodians stood together, trying to overcome their sad history. The guesthouse
owner built a substantial open shed, housing volleyball courts and snooker
tables. This was where the village kids came to play and practice. The owner didn’t
charge a single cent, he didn’t even sell alcohol or soft drinks to recuperate
his expenses.
19
May - Traeng Trayueng – Veal Rinh - 93 kilometres
The
landscape became hillier as the route headed south towards the coast. Much of
the land in the country’s Southwest was covered by the Cardamom Mountains, and one
needed to cross these mountains to reach Thailand.
Firstly,
however, I headed to Sihanoukville to check out the diving. Still, arriving in Veal
Rinh I lacked the desire to do an additional 50 kilometres, and a conveniently situated
guesthouse lured me in.
20
- 22 May - Veal Rinh – Sihanoukville - 53 kilometres
The
next morning, was a short distance to Sihanoukville where bungalow-style digs
at the Reef Resort, sported a swimming pool and thus made perfect accommodation.
The owner offered an excellent deal, and although initial plans weren’t to remain
long, the price was too good to ignore. Unfortunately, the diving turned out
not as good as expected. It was best to give it a miss and I did virtually zero,
apart from enjoying the swimming pool.
23
May - Sihanoukville – Koh Kong - By bus
Usually,
the rain came down quickly and hard in Southeast Asia and was soon over. However,
it continued raining this morning, and I was reluctant to get underway with my broken
pannier. My lazy existence in Sihanoukville should’ve been used to fix the
pannier, but I clean forgot about it. Although taped up, the tape had pulled
loose, and instead of fixing the bag I hopped on a bus to the border, and
within a few hours, was in Koh Kong. How this move would solve the problem was a
mystery as the pannier still needed fixing.
Biking
the same country/route twice wasn’t overly exciting and difficult to get
motivated. After finding a room in Koh Kong, a half-hearted attempt was made to
fix the broken pannier. It would’ve been easier to put everything in a
waterproof bag, as the pannier was beyond repair. An internet search revealed
an Ortlieb shop in Bangkok and the plan was to check them out.
24
May - Koh Kong
Instead
of crossing the border into Thailand, a trip upriver looked far more interesting.
The excursion made a good change of scenery and was money well spent. The boat
slowly puttered upriver for almost an hour and a half. From there on, an
overgrown trail led up the mountain to a waterfall; luckily, our guide had a
machete and could hack open the path. The landscape was lush and green, and the
weather humid as we strolled through dense forests to reach the falls. After a
swim and lunch, we retraced our steps. Halfway, our guide scrambled up a tree
and returned with a sizable coconut for each. In no time at all, he chopped the
coconut open and even made straws from the reeds.
25
May - Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand - 108 kilometres
The
Cambodian immigration office was across the river and a short bike ride from
the Thailand Immigration. It must’ve been the end of the dry season as the
rainy weather continued throughout the day. I thus cycled the 100 km to Trat
with rain pelting down.
This
ended my ride through Cambodia and returned me to centrally located Thailand for
the 5th time.
